Troops Completed

Originally I had intended to post every week. The idea was to use the blog to keep motivated for the project. As I got into the habit of painting that motivation became intrinsic. Hence no posts for the past four months. There was a lot of painting though.

I have completed all of the troops for my battle-demi company. Just in time for 8th Edition to do away with formations. Nevermind, I’m not bothered about that. I now have all the troops I’ll ever need for a Sauroters Space Marine army:

  • Three tactical squads with magnetized special weapons options
  • One tactical squad with magnetized special weapons and a missile launcher
  • One five man Command Squad with three grav guns a Veteran sergeant with power fist and a Chapter Champion
  • One five man Devastator Squad with magnetized heavy weapons
  • One five man Assault Squad with jump packs

I haven’t based them yet as I am waiting until I complete the 3 HQ choices, so I can do them all at once. All 58 of them. I have purchased some vehicles but I will do them as a separate project. The painting varies slightly from squad to squad but I’d say they’re all a decent tabletop quality and WYSIWYG. En mass they are pretty impressive.

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Tactical Squads Assembled

After a mammoth four day session I have assembled and primed all three tactical squads. I enjoyed doing it but I am also glad it’s over. After all this cutting, sanding and gluing I am really keen to get back to painting. As I mentioned in an earlier post I am modeling the sergeants and specialists with a single weapon option. Chainsword and plasma pistol and  plasma gun respectively. They are intended to be WYSIWYG.

[photos]

That said, the MKIII marines were modeled with chainswords. This is because the Burning of Prospero sprus come with 10, so I thought I’d use them. The marines are all equipped with a combat blade (or sword), grenades and ammo pouches.This makes them quite bulky but I would expect them to be heavily equipped. This also fits my counter insurgency theme.

After looking at them for a while I decided I didn’t like the chainswords on the MKIII marines. They were too big and awkwardly mounted. What really finished it for me though, was the handles. They are modeled with a kind of tab which is how they attach to the belts. Mounted behind the shoulder these tabs had nothing to attach to and would have looked weird when painted.

I wanted to keep the theme of combat blades consistent so I went back to my first squad of tactical marines and removed the 3D printed kopis. A couple broke during the process but that can’t be helped. They actually fit quite well on the the MKIII armor, so no filing was required.

The MKIV and MKVII marines have more conventional combat blades. There is an issue with fit though. I wanted the blades to be mounted behing the shoulder. They don’t fit. Particularly in the case of the MKIV blades. So, I had to file down the back of the torso with a square file to make space. I also had to position the handles to take advantage of the gap in the backpacks between the main unit and the exhaust.

The poses are fairly static due to all the extra bits like pouches limiting articulation. But I like how they look as a group. The MKIII marines look particularly brutal. The most difficult part of assembly was fitting the two parts of the MKIII backpack. It’s difficult not the leave a gap or inadvertently cut into the model while cleaning.

[photos]

As you can see the models are preshaded with Tamiya Dark Grey and then a zentithal layer of Tamiya Light Grey undercoat. I really do think preshading makes a big difference if you can keep your paint layers really thin. The next step will be basecoating. That will be an even bigger job than assembling and priming.

The Plan

hi001693955.jpg

So, having completed forty models and various parts I am no closer to my goal of a full battle demi company.This is due to the fact that thirty of the the forty are Ultramarines and the 10 Sauroters are not quite up to the standard I want. That said, I have learned how to assemble, model, convert and paint to a standard I am satisfied with so I’m now ready to tackle the project. So I’ve made a plan.

The first step was to buy the models I need. From ebay sellers I purchased four tactical squads. Two Betrayal at Calth sprues, one Burning of Prospero sprues and a MKVII sprue. I also bought an Assualt Squad sprue. That gives me enough models for 3 10-man tactical squads, 2 5-man Devastator Squads, 1 Assault Squad and a 5-man Command Squad. The Command Squad was put together by kitbashing leftovers from the sprues plus 5 sets of legs from my original Ultramarines Devastators.

The next step is to clip all of the parts off the sprues and group them into individual sets. As I have mentioned before, I want to be as WYSIWYG as possible. So, I will also need to supplement the sprues with parts from my bits box. The goal is to have a small baggy for each model containing each of the bits required to build it. For models like sergeants, this will include all of the weapons options. The leftover bits will go into my bits box.

Next I’ll need to clean up all the parts. I have heard several people mention how good the GW seam scraper is. I can use a knife just fine but it is a little dangerous and there is always the possibility of cutting into the miniature so I might get one. I am also going to get some Vallejo plastic putty for gap filling, particularly on the jump packs.

After that comes the modelling. I like to use sub-assemblies so I won’t be fully assembling my miniatures. I’ll be leaving the backpacks, helmets and arms carrying weapons of the bodies. These will be mounted on skewers for undercoating. I’ll also need to do the magnetization at this stage. Arms for the sergeants and hands for the special weapons guys. I’ll also be drilling all the barrels on all the weapons.

Everything will be primed with a Tamiya undercoat. I am planning to preshade the miniatures by first priming from below in black and then from above in grey. If I can keep subsequent layers thin, I should be able to achieve a decent look. Preshading is subtle but really does add something to the finished product if subcequent layers are thin.

Painting will be done in batches. I have noticed that I tend to get frustrated and sloppy if I paint for too long. What should be a hobby becomes a chore. My satisfaction really depends on a good result so I will be painting in small batches of 5 for miniatures and 10 for sub-assemblies. I am going to limit myself to one batch per session and concentrate on getting the best result possible.

The final step will be basing the models. As I mentioned in a previous post I’ll be using a base stamp and green stuff for basing. With the assault marines I’m planning to use transparent acrylic bases with black painted rims. I haven’t decided what color to paint the rims of the plastic bases but it will probably be black or grey. Everything will then be varnished with two coats of Tamiya Flat Clear.

 

 

Hobby Drills

I really enjoy the modelling part of the hobby. Almost as much as painting. Converting models also helps me to achieve the WYSIWYG theme that I find really satisfying. It can be as simple as drilling out barrels. As involved as magnetizing multiple weapon options or as practical as magnetizing parts for easy storage. A good drill makes all the difference.

[not a good drill(s)]

The first (set) of drills I bought was from a shop that sells all kinds of cheap household goods. They were Ok for the price. Especially as I didn’t want to invest a lot of money in a hobby up front. I found them a little difficult to use and I subsequently ruined a lot of bolter barrels. So many in fact I actually had to purchase loose bolters from an ebay seller to complete my first Tactical Squad box set. They tended to bend when used and were not sharp enough to really bite into the material.

DRILL
Image from: Games Workshop

I then upgraded to a Games Workshop Hobby Drill. The quality was much higher and I was able to get better results. I really like the finish on this tool too. The only problem was that it took a relatively long time to drill, especially if I was constantly changing the drill bits.

I decided to get an electric drill. After a bit of research I learned that bigger is not necessarily better (ahem). If the drill has high torque (spins fast) this can melt plastic. Also, there are a bewildering variety of drills available. Dremels seemed especially popular. I found their website pretty unhelpful though. It seemed a little limited and it was difficult to compare models.

One day, I was killing time in a shop called Tokyo Hands. Each store is a little different. The Shinjuku store has a lot of good hobby stuff. They happened to have several hobby drills. I chose one with variable speed and I also picked up a set of hobby drill bits. It included sanding disks, cutting disks etc. It was very cheap at under 3000¥ all in.

[photo]

The drill is actually more of a kind of hand router intended for light engraving. Glass and such. It’s powerful enough for plastic and resin without being overpowered. It’s not particularly robust but won’t be seeing any hard use. It has a couple of nice features like a dial for speed giving a lot of fine control. It has a decent sized cable with a plug and socket in the middle that should come apart if I snag the wire on something. The drill bits are easy to change too, although it took me far longer than it should have to work out how.

It came in a soft case which, while certainly utilitarian, was not particularly well fitting or elegant. So I store it in Tuppaware. It probably shouldn’t give me so much pleasure but having it neatly stored in a plastic box that matches my other plastic boxes does. That probably means I am some kind of serial killer.

[photo]

The drill has allowed me to attempt more elaborate conversions. The most useful drill bit so far has been the flat bottom drill bit. Because the bottom of the hole is flat and not rounded magnets sit a lot better in the hole and you don’t need to drill as deep. This is particularly useful when magnetizing arms to bodies.

I have learned a few things:

  • Start my making a small guide hole with something sharp
  • Start smaller than you want and work up
  • Use a low rpm and work up if needed
  • Ball ended bits are the best for removing a lot of material
  • Drill bits can jump around a bit initially if you futz, so be bold
  • Resin kicks up a lot of dust, so wear a mask
  • I wear glasses, but if I didn’t, I would definately wear safety glasses

Sauroter Chaplain

1-chaplain-front

2-chaplain-plasma

3-chaplain-crozius-arcanum

4-chaplain-back

5-chaplain-back-magnet

6-chaplain-front-jump-pack

7-chaplain-plasma-jump-pack

8-chaplain-crozius-arcanum-jump-pack

9-chaplain-back-jump-pack

 crozius-arcanum

Modelling

  • The body of the model is from the Deathwatch: Overkill boxset.
  • The helmet is from the Betrayal at Calth boxset.
  • The jump pack is from the Vanguards Veteran set.
  • The left shoulder pauldron was a custom order from a Shapeways seller.
  • The backpacks are magnetized using 1 x 3mm rare earth magnets.
  • The right arm is from the Betrayal at Calth boxset.
  • The plasma pistol is from the Tactical Squad boxset.

I found converting the backpacks relatively easy. I used two magnets for the backpack and three for the jump pack. I find the easiest method is to drill a hole and glue the first magnet. Usually this is the magnet in the body of the miniature. Next, I put the second magnet on the first and drill the hole in the secondary piece. Then, I apply glue to the second magnet using a cocktail stick. Finally I offer up the secondary piece to the second magnet. When the glue is dry I can pull the pieces and the magnets apart. This way the magnets will sit flush and I am less likely to get the polarity wrong.

Painting

The basic scheme is black. I went about it by applying very watered down coats of black over grey primer. Detail which then showed through was either left as it was or picked out in GW Eshin Grey. The armour was then tidied up with Vallejo Game Colour Black.

  • Armour ~ Vallejo Black (), highlighted with Eshin Grey
  • Left pauldron ~ Vallejo xxxx ()
  • Plasma Pistol~ Vallejo Black Metal (71.073), washed with GW Nuln Oil, highlighted with  Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (71.065)
  • Crozius Arcanum ~ Vallejo Brass (), highlighted with Vallejo Gold () and Vallejo Silver()
  • Leather~ undercoated with Vallejo Cammo Black Brown (), washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and Highlighted with Vallejo Flat Earth () mixed with white.
  • Book~  Vallejo Hull red (). Washed with GW Carrobourg Crimson and highlighted with Vallejo xxxx ()
  • Eyes ~  Vallejo xxxx  () sheded with GW Agrax Earthshade.

 

Overall I’m pleased with the result. I particularly like the way the handle of the Crozius Arcanum came out. It looks like soft leather. I regret not spending a bit more time and care on highlighting the wings of the Crozius Arcanum though. I feel I could have done a better job. I’m also not satisfied with the eyes. I have since developed a method I’m happy with, when I was painting this model I couldn’t do anything I was satisfied with so I just did almost solid red.

I have decided to make it a rule not to go back and add anything once a model is varnished. I’d prefer to just try to improve on the next model. In this way I hope to see a solid progression in the quality I can achieve. It’s also motivating to try and get it right the first time. I rushed through the Crozius Arcanum because I was tired and wanted to get it finished. I would have been better off simply stopping and picking it up another day. It’s a hobby after all and should be relaxing not stressful.

You’ll notice that it is not based yet. I am not planning to base anything until the whole army is finished. I want to try an achieve a  consistent look and I really haven’t decided how they’ll be based yet.

Also, I haven’t painted the detail he is standing on. Partly this is because I haven’t decided on a basing scheme but mainly because I will probably cut this piece away. I want to have a base where he is running up stairs. This should give a more dynamic look. Especially with the jump pack attached. It will also break the monotony of all the HQ choices having one leg up on something.

Betrayal at Calth

GW-BETRAYAL-AT-CALTH
Image from: Games Workshop

Shortly after I started this blog Games Workshop released the Betrayal at Calth boxset. It seems like a good deal but space is at a real premium for me. I also can’t see myself wanting to paint 30 pretty much identical spacemarines. Also, I much prefer the classic Dreadnought to the Contempter and I’ve never been a fan of Terminators, Cataphractii or otherwise.

I do really like the MKIV armour though. So, I bought a single tactical squad from an ebay seller. The sprue is really nice. I really like the bolter guns. The barrel lines up with whatever the part that ejects spent cartridges is called. That’s something that had bugged me since Veteran Sergeant pointed out why it doesn’t make sense on his blog.

I am going to paint this squad as a veteran squad. I am imagining that Sauroters veterans get access to earlier marks of armour as a badge of rank. This should also add a bit of variety to my collection and give me a bit of variety in my painting too.

I like that GW included enough combat blades for a WYSIWYG squad, but I don’t like the blades themselves. They are too big and can’t be mounted behind the shoulder as I intend. They also won’t fit well in addition to grenades, pistols and pouches. It’s telling that very, very few painted models, even from Games Workshop TV, include the combat blades. So, I’ll be using the 3D-printed Kopis I mentioned in an earlier post.

I like the MKIV backpacks better than the MKVII from the Tactical Squad boxset although I still much prefer the backpacks from Anvil Industries. So, I’ll use the resin backpacks for the tactical and special weapons marines. I’ll use the MKVII backpacks for the Sergeant and heavy weapon marine. I’ll be using MKIV backpacks on my HQ choices so that should provide some visual continuity.

Im comparison with the 40K tactical box set, I find the poses a bit static. However, I like how the arms attach to hands holding weapons. The extended wrist armour gives a nice surface for gluing and a much neater looking result. However, that also make it very difficult to change aiming poses. So, I think it’s back to (the cheaper) MKVII for subsequent squads.

Librarians

FW-LIBRARIAN
Image from: ForgeWorld.co.uk

I wanted to include a Librarian in my collection as an alternative HQ. However, I’m not a big fan of parts of the GW aesthetic. I don’t really like the chapter specific iconography and I find some of the general embellishments a bit over the top. In particular, the horned skull on the Librarian pauldrons and greaves, reminds me of the cow pies eaten by Desperate Dan.

Initially I ordered the librarian from the Assault on Black Reach boxset. I didn’t like the non helmeted head and there was a fair amount of Dark Angels and Dandy iconography on it but I really liked the pose of the outstretched hand. So I set about ‘converting’ it.

With my first attempt I manages to cut off the fingers while taking it off the sprue. So, I ordered another. I practiced taking off the iconography on the first model. I very quickly realized I was not going to be able to do it so I decided not to worry about it. Then I discovered the Magister Sevrin Loth miniature from Forgeworld. I really like the Mark IV power armor, so I ordered one from ebay.

I ordered it from an ebay seller. I was really impressed with how quickly it turned up and the packaging was really excellent. I would definately recommend them.

The miniature I ordered only included the body, not the arms or weapons. That suited me fine because they were chapter specific. I also intended to add the arm from the Black Reach Librarian. However, I made a real mess of it. In the end I went with a standard Mark VII arm with pointing hand and a spare chainsword arm from a Forgeworld Apothecary. The post looks a bit ‘come at me bro’ but it’s fine. I imagine Librarians to be a bit unstable anyway.

In terms of fluff Librarians are supposed to have a power weapon. On one hand I like the idea of a hazard striped chainsword. On the other, I would like a power sword or perhaps a lightning claw. The problem is, that the weapon hand is the right hand and melee weapons usually come attached to a right hand. It wouldn’t be too hard to covert something, so I’m going to think about it for a while.

Another reason for including a Librarian is that I really enjoy painting blue. I’d like to go for a lighter blue than with my Ultramarines. Blue should also provide a bit of variety in amongst all of the Sauroters green. I might go for red helmet lenses on all of my HQ models, except the Techmarine, just to provide a bit of visual continuity.